We took a Zodiac boat tour around Louise Island. The central point of the tour was to visit K’uuna Llnagaay (Skedans) Haida Village.

It was cloudy when we got to Moresby camp. But soon after the sun slowly started to come out. The ocean was completely flat due to the absence of any wind. It looked like this was going to be a great day.

It is estimated that Haida population was reduced from around 30,000 in the late 1700s to less than 600 in the early 1900 due to a severe smallpox outbreak. 

While it was photographed in 1878 with 27 houses, the devastating effects of the disease and other colonial impacts led to its depopulation and eventual abandonment.

Some of the totem poles were removed and placed in museums, but the vast majority as well as the many houses were left to decay consistent with the Haida’s cultural and environmental philosophy of allowing natural cycles.

Our guide had some of the late 1800 pictures with him but it was only when we visited the Haida cultural center the next day at Skidegate that we had a complete understanding of what we have seen in the island.

The ancient Haida Village was the high point of the tour but there was a lot more. We were able to see the beautiful landscape of Gwaii Haanas Island and plenty of marine wildlife including around two dozen whales that were still in the are.

The return trip to Moresby camp passed through a small strait between Louise and Gwaii Haanas islands.

We were exhausted when we got back to our vehicles to board the ferry back to Skidegate.