We left the Vikar campground this morning and drove for Gjógv, a village at the far northeast tip of the island of Eysturoy. Eysturoy is the second-largest of the Faroe islands and one of the most rugged, a place of steep peaks and two long fjords that nearly cut it in two. Slættaratindur, the highest mountain in the country at about two thousand nine hundred feet, stands on this island, and you feel the height of the land the whole way across.

We left the campground near the ferry this morning and drove west, out of Tórshavn and toward the island of Vágar. The sky was still low and grey, so we made a plan for the day around the weather. We would drive straight to the far end first, to the places that hold up even under cloud, and save the ones that need clear light for the afternoon, in the hope it would lift.